segunda-feira, 25 de setembro de 2017

Rooting Cacti in Water - (Enraizando cactos na água)

ROOTING CACTI IN WATER
By Jorge Quiñónez

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INTRODUCTION

I’ve collected cacti now for five years. I began with desert cactus, and one of the most important things (rule) I learned was not to overwater or leave my cactus in water (H2O, dihydrogen oxide) or else the cactus or its roots would rot. The end result was that liquids would kill the cacti. Several years later, when I began to collect epiphytic and related cacti, I learned by researching the internet that this “rule” was a little more flexible.

When trying to root a cactus, you usually place a cutting vertically or horizontally in a substrate, the most common being a mixture that is half organic and half inorganic (for example, half potting soil and half pumice or perlite). After waiting a few weeks, your cactus cutting develops roots and is ready to be watered. This method is the most accepted and effective way to root a cactus. But, I learned there was another way.


Hatiora sp rooted in water.
Jorge Quiñonez





EPIPHYTIC CACTI

With the exception of cactus species from the Pereskia and Leuenbergeria [1] genera, 98% of all cactus are succulents. But while all epiphytic cacti are considered to be succulents, the problem with many of the small epiphytic cacti is that they are some of the least succulent. For example, some Rhipsalis species have stem diameters of, at most, several millimeters (e.g., R. campos-portana or R. burchellii). If you’re not careful, when you try to root them in a pot, they will easily dry out before developing roots. To keep them from drying out, experienced cultivators place cuttings in a humid plastic dome or terrarium or spray them with water daily or as needed.

I was very intrigued when I slowly began to find out on the internet about other people who were rooting and even growing Schlumbergera hybrid cacti by placing the bottom third or quarter of a stem in the water [2]. I tried this water method myself and it worked. Then I slowly tried it on other cacti from most of the epiphytic cactus genera, though I haven’t confirmed that it works with Lymanbensonia, Weberocereus, or Strophocactus.

Over the past year, I discovered that cuttings sometimes rooted quickly – in less than two weeks – and other times rooting took up to a couple of months. And I noted that none of my cactus cuttings dried out while they were rooting in water. The only problem I’ve encountered is occasional rot at the bottom of the stems – perhaps because the ends of stems had not properly calloused – and from stems that become completely submerged. This problem of rot can be prevented by checking your cuttings every few days. If they don’t rot within the first week or so, my experience is that they probably won’t rot later. Once roots begin to develop, take the cutting out of the water and pot it. Remove any flowers or buds because they will delay the rooting process. If left on the stem, the flowers will try to develop into fruit or buds that will try to flower, rather than the stem trying to develop roots.








R. paradoxa rooted in water - 1
Jorge Quiñonez
R. paradoxa rooted in water - 2
Jorge Quiñonez



























NON-EPIPHYTIC CACTI

I watched a video on YouTube where the narrator showed a cutting of Pereskia aculeata (called “ora-pro-nóbis” in Brazil) rooted in water. Water-rooting also works for Leuenbergeria quisqueyana [3]. Leuenbergeria is the sister genus of Pereskia. So, this technique could presumably work for other species in both the Pereskia and Leuenbergeria genera. Some grafters of cacti know that rooting in water also works for Pereskiopsisspathulata, a commonly used stock. Interestingly, Pereskiopsis is in the Opuntia family. The connection between Pereskia, Leuenbergeria, and Pereskiopsis is that they all have persistent leaves. While it is a fact that Pereskia and Leuenbergeria are non-succulent cacti, I wonder whether there is a connection between cacti with leaves and the ability to root in water? I think probably not, since no one else has seemed to have reported that it worked with other cacti with persistent leaves such as species from the Austrocylindropuntia or the Maihuenia genus. But, then again, maybe no one has tried rooting plants in those genera before. It might work for Quiabentia species since it’s so similar to Pereskiopsis. I encourage anyone to let me know if they succeed with any of these cacti with persistent leaves.

See Table 1 for a list of cacti genera that can be rooted in water. Note that this table does not mean that it worked for all species in each genus, only that it worked for one or more species in the genus (usually the more common ones) based on my own experience or research. Table 2 is a list of cacti genera that I suspect might be able to be rooted in water.

CONCLUSION

I wouldn’t consider using water as a first option for rooting. Some people have reported success while others have reported failure. Keep these results in mind because I wouldn’t want anyone who attempted this method to lose all of their cuttings. I recommend that you try a few cuttings in water as an experiment. If you have success, try more cuttings until you feel confident about success. Compared to a dry substrate, water has the advantage of allowing you to see directly whether a cutting has developed roots. While there are always exceptions, I feel my success rate is about the same whether I root in water or in dry substrate.



TABLE 1
Cacti Genera that Root in H2O
Rhipsalis
Lepismium
Schlumbergera
Hatiora
Hylocereus
Selenicereus
Disocactus
Epiphyllum
Pfeiffera
Leuenbergeria (non-epiphytic)
Pereskia (non-epiphytic)
Pereskiopsis(non-epiphytic)



TABLE 2
Suspected Cacti Species that May Root in H2O, but that requires confirmation
Weberocereus
Lymanbensonia
Strophocactus
Quiabentia (non-epiphytic)



SOURCES:
1)               Leuenbergeria is the new name given to the group of Pereskia species native to the Caribbean and Central America, which molecular research has demonstrated to be distinct from the species in the original Pereskia genus. The remaining Pereskia species are all native to South American.
2)               Leo A. Martin, “Rooting Epiphytic Cactus Cuttings in Arizona” Link:https://centralarizonacactus.org/assets/article/genera/CACSS_Article_Rooting_Epiphytic_Cacti_In_AZ_Leo_Martin.PDF





sábado, 9 de setembro de 2017

Hatiora herminiae

Hatiora herminiae. Planta em cultivo.
Imagem: Eduardo Gardini - agosto/2017

Hatiora herminiae apresenta cladódios cilíndricos com tamanho entre 1-2,5 cm com tom verde escuro (pode avermelhar se estiver a Sol pleno, o que não é o ideal para o crescimento vegetativo dessa espécie). A planta cresce de forma vertical com surgimento de novos brotos sempre na parte apical. Com a idade e peso dos cladódios a planta pode excepcionalmente vir a se curvar e formar touceiras em forma esférica.
Hatiora herminiae apresenta hábito (estrutura da planta) muito semelhante à Hatiora cylindrica, com diferenças sutis como p.e. uma cobertura pilosa laranja escuro nas extremidades dos segmentos apicais, ao passo que a H. Cylindrica normalmente apresenta a extremidade dos cladódios apicais esbranquiçados e ocasionalmente afunilados na extremidade.
Sua ocorrência foi constatada nos estados brasileiros de MG e São \paulo, sendo nesse último encontrado exemplar na região de Campos do Jordão, cujo clima e altitude são favoráveis à planta.





Hatiora herminiae
Imagem: Eduardo Gardini



O grande destaque visual dessa planta se dá nas flores, de um pink intenso contrastando com o tom verde/amarelado do pericarpo. Nas flores as pétalas são maiores que as das
 rhipsalis, de um pink intenso. A cor das pétalas é de um rosa muito intenso e chamativo.
Trata-se de uma espécie rara, pouco comentada e estudada no Brasil, sendo todo material publicado a respeito dela de origem estrangeira. Sua presença nos locais de origem é incerta, havendo ocasionalmente ofertas de sementes em sites internacionais oriundas de particulares.
Hatiora herminiae é auto polinizável e pode produzir flores e frutos em cinco anos a partir da germinação.





Flores de Hatiora herminiae e de Hariota cylindrica postas lado a lado para referência de cor e tamanho.
Imagem: Eduardo Gardini - 09/09/2017



O substrato dessa panta deve ser bastante drenável e o vaso de barro ajuda na eliminação da umidade.
Na foto abaixo foi usada Perlita pura e a planta é fertilizada com Osmocote liberação lenta. Vai muito bem em substrato vegetal fibroso. Prefere locais com incidência indireta de luz solar e irrigação diária. Costuma se desidratar com facilidade, o que leva os cultivadores a utilizarem de enxerto para manutenção. Esse método também antecipa a maturidade da planta e seu florescimento.

Hatiora herminiae - Nesse vaso com perlita pura e vaso de barro, adubada com Osmocote
de liberação lenta, regada diariamente.
Imagem: Eduardo Gardini - 09/09/2017




Hatiora herminiae enxertada em Pereskiopsis.
Imagem: Eduardo Gardini - 2017




Hatiora herminiae germinada em estufa adaptada. Planta com
18 meses.
Imagem: Eduardo Gardini